In this special feature on Kyoto's famous sites, we will introduce the characteristics and history of Kyoto's shrines and temples. We hope to provide detailed information that will be useful for sightseeing. This is the ninth installment, and we will introduce Shogunzuka, Gojo Ohashi Bridge, and Kurama Temple.

●Shogunzuka

Shogunzuka, located in the Shoren-in Temple enclave on Mount Kacho, one of the Higashiyama mountain ranges, is a spot where you can get a panoramic view of Kyoto's nightscape. From here you can get a great panoramic view of Kyoto city. There is also a municipal observation deck in the parking lot at the top of Mount Kacho, but many people say that the view from Shogunzuka Observatory is better than that from this observation deck.

The Dainichido Hall where Shogunzuka is located is a hall dedicated to Dainichi Nyorai, and there are two observation decks on the north and west sides of the grounds. The views from both observation decks are nothing short of spectacular, and the night view is especially popular. Shogunzuka was built in the Heian period and is a mound about 20 meters in diameter and 2.5 meters in height. There is a mysterious legend about this mound. It is said that if something important or unusual happens to the country, the mound will shake violently. In fact, there are records of the mound shaking in the Genpei Seisuiki and Taiheiki. An earthen statue of Sakanoue no Tamuramaro was buried under the mound by order of Emperor Kanmu, and it is said that if it senses any unusual happenings in the country, it will warn the people of Kyoto. Sakanoue no Tamuramaro was a hero who attracted the worship of the people of Heian-kyo at that time. So why is the earthen statue of Tamuramaro buried here?

Emperor Kanmu, who built Heian-kyo, had a strong ambition to bring the Tohoku region under his control at all costs. Since ancient times, Tohoku has been home to people who were not under the control of the Imperial Court and were called "Emishi." Since the time of the Yamato government, the Emishi have frequently rebelled against the Imperial Court. Emperor Kanmu tried to conquer the Emishi, but their leader Aterui was so brave that the Imperial forces always suffered crushing defeats. Still, the Emperor did not give up on conquering the Emishi, and in 791 (Enryaku 10), he appointed Otomo no Otomaro as Seii Taishogun and Sakanoue no Tamuramaro as Deputy Shogun, and sent an army of 100,000 men. Tamuramaro achieved great success in this battle, and the Imperial Court was finally victorious. In 797 (16th year of the Enryaku era), Tamuramaro was appointed Shogun and once again set out to conquer the Emishi, eventually subjugating the Emishi army led by Aterui. Emperor Kanmu was very pleased with this and promoted him to Dainagon. He thought it would be a good idea to have a clay statue of Tamuramaro made to guard the capital. It is said that the two-meter-tall clay statue of Sakanoue no Tamuramaro was dressed in helmet and armor, armed with an iron bow and arrow and sword, and buried in a mound.

●Gojo Bridge and Kurama Temple

Gojo Ohashi Bridge crosses the Kamo River that runs through Kyoto City, and is located on the border between Shimogyo Ward and Higashiyama Ward.

This is a part of Route 1. It is said that Ushiwakamaru (Minamoto no Yoshitsune) and Benkei met on this bridge at the end of the Heian period, and at the foot of the west side of the bridge, stone statues of Ushiwakamaru and Benkei in the style of Kyoto dolls stand, entertaining passersby. It seems that avid history buffs also make pilgrimages here.

Musashibo Benkei, a violent monk, decided to steal a thousand swords in Kyoto, and by stealing them from passersby, he collected 999 swords. When he had just one left, he met Ushiwakamaru on Gojo Bridge, who was passing by playing a flute, and attacked him to steal the sword, but he was no match for the agile Ushiwakamaru who flew over the parapet, and he ended up prostrating himself. After that, he served Ushiwakamaru as his retainer until the end. As you probably know, this Ushiwakamaru would later become Yoshitsune, the hero who defeated the Taira clan.

Minamoto no Yoritomo, who had been exiled to Izu, raised an army to overthrow the Taira clan in 1180 (Jisho 4). Yoritomo's half-brother Yoshitsune rushed to join his brother's army. In 1185, they finally destroyed the Taira clan at the Battle of Dannoura in the Seto Inland Sea. However, his glorious military record became a cause of conflict with his brother Yoritomo. Yoshitsune returned to Kyoto in triumph, receiving an imperial envoy from Emperor Goshirakawa personally praising his military achievements. He was appointed to the official position he received from the Imperial Court without the permission of Yoritomo, the head of the Minamoto clan. The fact that Yoshitsune received the official position without Yoritomo's permission, that Yoshitsune acted independently without following Yoritomo's orders in the initial battle to pursue the Taira clan, and that Yoshitsune's hasty attack at the Battle of Dannoura resulted in the sword, one of the Three Sacred Treasures, and Emperor Antoku being sunk into the sea were all extremely important to Yoritomo, who was trying to establish a solid military government. Yoritomo is furious.

Yoritomo did not allow Yoshitsune to enter Kamakura. Furthermore, Yoritomo confiscated all of Yoshitsune's territories and finally issued an order to pursue and kill Yoshitsune. Yoshitsune's spectacular performance in defeating the Taira clan was of no use and instead led Yoshitsune down the path to self-destruction. Yoshitsune also received an imperial edict from Emperor Goshirakawa to pursue and kill Yoritomo and raised an army, but he found few allies who supported him and suffered a crushing defeat. He fled to Hiraizumi in Oshu, relying on Fujiwara Hidehira. However, he was attacked by Fujiwara Yasumori, who had succumbed to Yoritomo's repeated orders to conquer Yoshitsune, and in 1189 (Bunji 5), he committed suicide with his wife and children.

Kurama Temple, where Yoshitsune trained as a child, is still located in the north of Kyoto today, on the southern slope of Mount Kurama, 570 meters above sea level. To get to Kurama Temple from Kyoto City, take the Eizan Electric Railway from Demachiyanagi Station to the last stop, Kurama Station, for about 30 minutes, and when you get off, Kurama Temple is right in front of the station. Once you pass through the Niomon Gate, Yuki Shrine will welcome you. From there, it's about a 30-minute uphill climb to the main hall, but if you find it difficult to do strenuous exercise such as climbing a hill, we recommend taking a cable car. It takes about 2 minutes to reach the main hall. The vast temple grounds are a steep mountain path, and there are many sights to see, such as the "Tree Root Path" where thick tree roots are exposed, the Tahoto Pagoda, Bishamon-do Hall, Maou Okunoin, Oniichi Hogensha Shrine, and Yoshitsune's training grounds, and it takes about 2 hours to tour the entire temple grounds. Why not enjoy nature while remembering Yoshitsune at Kurama Temple?