We are going to introduce you to Kyoto's famous places, focusing on the characteristics and history of the shrines and temples in Kyoto. We hope to provide you with a detailed introduction that will be useful for your sightseeing. This is the fifth installment, and we will introduce you to Kozan-ji Temple and Tai-an.

 

●Kozanji Temple

Kosanji Temple is located in the mountains of Toganoo, on the northwestern outskirts of Kyoto City. It is designated as a World Heritage Site and is known as a famous spot for viewing autumn leaves. It is said to have been founded in the Nara period, but it was actually opened by the monk Myoe in the Kamakura period. It is also known as the place where tea was first made in Japan.

It is said that tea seeds were first introduced to Japan by a monk who studied in Tang China in the early Heian period, but full-scale tea cultivation didn't begin until the Kamakura period by the monk Eisai, the founder of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism.

Eisai traveled to Song China twice, and when he returned to Japan in 1191, he brought back tea seeds with him. He also shared some with his close friend, Myoe of Kosanji Temple.

So Myoe planted tea seeds in the grounds of Kosan-ji Temple and began cultivating it.

This was the beginning of tea cultivation in Japan, and the tea garden at Kosanji Temple is said to be the oldest tea garden in Japan. Tea has the effect of waking up the sleep that disturbs Buddhist training. Therefore, Myoe recommended tea cultivation at Kosanji Temple to his disciples, and it became very popular after this, and Toganoo became known as a famous tea producing area.

The quality of the tea produced in Toganoo was so high that tea lovers gave it the title of "honcha" (real tea) and said it was of the highest quality, while all other teas were considered "non-tea". In order to further spread tea cultivation, Myoe chose Jichi in Yamashiro as the place with the best conditions for cultivation, and taught tea cultivation to Jichi. Thus, Jichi tea, the famous tea in Japan that replaced Toganoo, was born.

During the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, tea harvested in the tea gardens of Takao-ji Temple was presented annually to the emperor and the shogunate. Part of the tea gardens from those days still remains at Takao-ji Temple today, and tea picking takes place in mid-May. In addition, every year on November 8th, a tea offering ceremony is held at Kaisan-do Hall to present new tea to Myoe Shonin. Tea industry association members and other related parties from Jizai come to offer a memorial service for Myoe Shonin and those who contributed to the spread of tea.

The temple also houses a National Treasure picture scroll called "Chōju-giga," which depicts rabbits, frogs, monkeys and other animals as humans, satirizing the social conditions of the time. Its humorous, rhythmic expressions use the same techniques as modern manga, and it is said to be the roots of Japanese animation.

Currently, the buildings of Takao-ji Temple are scattered throughout the mountain forest, and the simple temple built in the dense surroundings truly exudes the atmosphere of a mountain temple. In the autumn foliage, the temple turns a deep red, creating a stunning beauty.

Eisai, who shared the tea seeds with Myoe, was subsequently under the protection of the Kamakura shogunate, and in 1201, with the assistance of Minamoto no Yoriie, built Kennin-ji Temple in Gion, Kyoto. During the Kamakura period, tea was used as a medicine rather than a luxury item, and in his later years, Eisai wrote "Kissa Yojoki" (A Guide to Drinking Tea), spreading the word about the health benefits of tea. The preface to the book states, "Tea is an elixir for health. It is a wonderful technique for prolonging life," and goes on to say that tea in particular can invigorate the body and mind, tone the heart, and cure all diseases, and that tea is also a miracle cure for drunkenness and drowsiness. For this reason, it was highly valued among monks as a way to stay awake during their training.

Currently, the grounds of Kenninji Temple are filled with hedges of tea trees. A tea monument stands near the Kaisan-do Hall, and behind it is a small tea garden. Kozan-ji Temple and Kennin-ji Temple contributed not only to the spread of Buddhism but also to the spread of Japanese tea.

● Taian

The tea ceremony is said to have begun from the custom of drinking tea in the Heian period, and in the Muromachi period, teahouses were established where tea was prepared for renga poetry gatherings and other events and brought to the tatami rooms of the gathering hall.

The oldest surviving teahouse in Japan is located at the foot of Mount Tennozan in Oyamazaki Town, Otokuni County, Kyoto Prefecture. The teahouse is called "Taian" and is located inside Myoki-an, a Rinzai sect temple. It is the only teahouse said to have been built by Sen no Rikyu and is designated as a national treasure.

Myoki-an was founded by Tofuku-ji Temple's Zen master Shungokushiho during the Meiō era (1492-1501) of the Muromachi period. Currently, the temple sits quietly in front of Yamazaki Station. Although it is not a very large temple, it is known for the teahouse Tai-an on its grounds, and is visited by many people.

So why did Rikyu build a teahouse in this place? It is related to Toyotomi Hideyoshi. In 1582, when Oda Nobunaga was killed at Honnoji Temple, Hideyoshi hurriedly returned to Kyoto from Bitchu Matsuyama, where he clashed with Akechi Mitsuhide, who had killed Nobunaga, in this place of Oyamazaki.

This is the famous Battle of Yamazaki. At that time, Hideyoshi's base was Yamazaki Castle, located at the top of Mount Tenno, which offered a panoramic view of Oyamazaki. Hideyoshi won the battle easily, but he lived in the castle for about half a year and invited Sen no Rikyu to build a teahouse there, which became Tai-an.

Rikyu quickly built a small two-tatami tea room and prepared tea for Hideyoshi. The tea room was then moved to Myoki-an at the foot of the mountain during the Keicho era (1596-1615).

Rikyu completed his teahouse by incorporating the wabi-cha style with his own unique concept, creating small rooms of two or three tatami mats. This was said to be a way for the host to connect with his guests emotionally, a "direct communication of the heart." So why did Hideyoshi have Rikyu build a teahouse right after the Battle of Yamazaki? Why did he have him build a teahouse in the remote location of Yamazaki, rather than in the capital of Kyoto or Osaka? Before serving Hideyoshi, Rikyu was highly valued by Oda Nobunaga and was even employed as a tea master.

However, after Nobunaga was killed, the country came under Hideyoshi's control. To let the world know that he was going to be the ruler of the country, Hideyoshi invited Rikyu, Nobunaga's favorite, immediately after the Battle of Yamazaki and had a teahouse to Rikyu's liking quickly built in his castle. Hideyoshi probably wanted to declare that from now on the country belonged to Hideyoshi and that tea masters should serve him.

 

This time, we introduced two famous spots, Takao-ji Temple and Tai-an, which tend to be hidden by other tourist spots. We hope that anyone who wants to get to know Kyoto thoroughly and get around the city will know about them.