We are going to introduce you to Kyoto's famous places, focusing on the characteristics and history of the shrines and temples in Kyoto. We hope to provide you with a detailed introduction that will be useful for your sightseeing. This is the first in our series, and we will be looking at Tofukuji Temple and Koryuji Temple.

 

What is Tofukuji Temple?

Tofukuji Temple is located southeast of Kyoto Station. It is near Tofukuji Station, one stop on the JR Nara Line. It is the head temple of the Rinzai sect, located at the foot of Gachirinzan, one of the 36 peaks of Higashiyama. It was founded by Kujo Michiie, who was the regent at the time, during the Kamakura period. Kujo Michiie wanted to demonstrate his power by building a huge Great Buddha and constructing and enshrining it in an imposing temple that would rival Todaiji Temple and Kofukuji Temple. The temple's name, Tofukuji, is taken from Todaiji Temple and Kofukuji Temple, showing his competitive spirit.

The Great Buddha was a gigantic 15-meter-tall Buddha, and the temple was completed in 1282. The Great Buddha at Todaiji Temple was 14.8 meters tall, so as planned, it was one of the largest Buddha statues at the time. This Great Buddha survived until 1881. Yes, the Great Buddha at Tofukuji Temple was burned down. The first time was in 1319 (the first year of the Gen'o era) due to a fire. It was rebuilt once, but was burned down again in 1881 and has never been rebuilt since. Currently, the left hand of the Great Buddha (about 2 meters tall) is preserved as it was rescued during the fire.

But did you know that Tofukuji Temple has another important cultural property? It's the oldest surviving toilet in Japan. Called Tofukuji Toji, it is a magnificent Zen-style building that catches your eye immediately to the left as you enter the temple gate. Its exterior is also very large and impressive, and it's hard to believe it's a toilet. Inside Tofukuji Toji, there is a large dirt floor in the center with many holes on either side, with a total of 72 ceramic jars lined up in two rows. There are no partitions, and it is said that up to 100 Zen monks would line up here to relieve themselves.

In those days, there were strict rules for using the toilet, and it was a part of the training.

First, the priest removes his robes and folds them carefully, then prepares yellow mud balls. Next, he takes a bucket of water in his right hand and changes into straw sandals in front of the leather shop. He goes up to the toilet and squats over the urn (a posture in which the knees are spread apart and bent deeply, heels are raised, and the upper body is straight) to relieve himself. When he's done, he wipes himself with a spatula and washes the urn with his right hand, being careful not to splash water. After washing, he washes his hands three times at the washbasin, three times with ash, three times with mud balls, and three times with acacia leaves, and then washes his hands with water or hot water.

As you can see from the extremely detailed rules and regulations, they put a lot of effort into maintaining cleanliness. The excrement collected in the jars was used as fertilizer to grow Kyoto vegetables, which became a source of income for the temple. What we would call recycling today was thoroughly practiced from long ago.

Tofukuji Temple is also famous as a spot to see autumn leaves, and the view of the autumn leaves from the "Tsūtenkyo Bridge" in the temple grounds is so beautiful it is hard to put into words. I would definitely recommend you visit during the autumn season to enjoy the magnificent autumn leaves, the hands of the Great Buddha, and the oldest toilet.

 

●Koryuji Temple

Kyoto, with its long history of 1200 years, has many Buddhist statues that are recognized as national treasures and important cultural properties. Among them, the most popular and widely known is the Miroku Bosatsu (Miroku Bosatsu) at Koryuji Temple. It is a name of a Buddhist statue that is familiar to the ear, isn't it? The official name is Miroku Bosatsu Hankashiyuizo (Miroku Bosatsu Half-seated Pensive Statue). This Buddha statue is considered to be the first national treasure in Japan. In fact, Koryuji Temple has two Maitreya Bosatsu, the Crowned Maitreya Bosatsu and the Crowned Maitreya Bosatsu, both of which are designated as national treasures. The Crowned Maitreya Bosatsu is the most beautiful in appearance. With a slim figure, sitting on a pedestal, crossing his legs with his right foot resting on his left thigh, lightly placing the tip of his bow on his right cheek, and appearing lost in thought as if smiling faintly, it is popular for its artistic beauty. The German philosopher Karl Jaspers is said to have praised it for its beauty, calling it "the highest form of human existence."

Koryuji Temple is said to have been founded in the first half of the 7th century during the Asuka period, making it a very ancient temple. It was founded by the Hata clan, who developed the Ukyo and Saikyo areas of Kyoto. Koryuji Temple is the clan temple of the Hata clan (a temple built as a place of rituals for powerful clans and royalty).

The Hata clan was a powerful clan from the Korean peninsula with technical skills in weaving, sake brewing, flood control, and sericulture, and after coming to Japan, they worked hard on irrigation and flood control in Kyoto and Osaka, and were influential figures who were also involved in the finances of the Imperial Court. The Nihon Shoki records that the Hata clan received a sacred Buddha statue from Prince Shotoku and founded Hachioka-dera Temple to enshrine it, and this Hachioka-dera Temple is said to be Koryuji Temple. However, according to historical documents handed down at Koryuji Temple, it is also said that it was built to enshrine Prince Shotoku, who died in 633, and the details are not known. Either way, it is known as the oldest temple in Kyoto that enshrines Prince Shotoku as its principal image, and is currently a famous spot in Uzumasa.

There is a story behind this, but it seems that a Kyoto University student was so captivated by the beauty of the Maitreya Bodhisattva statue at Koryuji Temple that he accidentally touched it and broke the ring finger on his right hand. It has now been beautifully restored, but please be careful not to get too captivated by it.

 

Both temples are famous for being buildings of great historical value, so if you are sightseeing in Kyoto, please be sure to visit them. Both are best reached by train from Kyoto Station, but there is a kimono rental shop called VASARA Kyoto Station store inside the station. Visiting the temple in a kimono is also photogenic, so we hope you will consider this as well.

 

Kimono Rental VASARA Kyoto Station Store https://vasara-h.co.jp/shop/detail.html?id=20